In the world of jewelry, two visual universes coexist: traditional hand-drawn designs, known as " gouaché “ which touches the soul and imagination of the artist, and computer-assisted drawing, also known as ” 3D modeling or design ", which focuses more on the technical rigor of the designer and the artisan jeweler who crafts the jewelry. Together, they translate good ideas into truly exceptional pieces.
LE GOUACHÉ JOAILLIER: a traditional hand-drawn design
Gouache is a traditional drawing technique used in French high jewelry, created by an artist-designer using a brush and water-based paint called “gouache.” It is often done on a sheet of gray paper and serves as a bridge between the designer, the jewelry craftsman, and the future owner of the piece. It also allows the finished piece to be visualized before it even exists.
Advantages of jewelry gouaché
- Gouache jewelry is an artistic and highly realistic representation of jewelry.
- The volumes, shapes, textures, and colors of precious stones and materials are crafted with great precision.
- It is a valuable testimony to the creative process behind jewelry.
- It is an original that can become a work of art over time and transform itself, for example, into the centerpiece of an exhibition.
- It can increase the perceived value of a piece of jewelry.
- It is often used in advertising campaigns, shop windows, on social media, or in magazines to promote jewelry brands or high-end jewelry designers.
- In many cases, the gouache also serves as a technical data sheet for communicating with manufacturing workshops.
- More economical than an actual prototype.
Constraints of jewelry gouaché
- Fragile by nature: it must be protected from moisture and sunlight.
- Difficult to correct once painted.
- Its completion requires time and patience.
- Needs to be digitized in order to be distributed on a large scale.
Gouache painting of the Butterfly Brooch, handmade with a brush on a sheet of gray Canson paper by VERONICA CYROT
3D DESIGN: digital modeling for precision
3D design is now an essential tool in contemporary jewelry creation. Using specialized software, it allows designers to virtually design a piece of jewelry with extreme precision before printing a prototype or launching its production in the workshop. It is used by designers, jewelry houses, and workshops to increase efficiency and control production costs.
But 3D design is not just a technical task: it is also a creative process. Designing a piece directly in 3D requires not only software expertise, but also a strong imagination to create an original design. And when it comes to transforming a gouache painting into a 3D model, the challenge is different: you have to understand the artistic intention behind the drawing, capture its spirit, and transpose that vision into the volume and final form of the jewelry. Translated with DeepL.com (free version)
Advantages of 3D design
- Millimeter precision at full scale
- Each element can be modified infinitely (size, shape, or position of elements).
- It allows you to test multiple versions of the same design.
- Facilitates the calculation of exact metal volumes and stone sizes, thereby optimizing manufacturing costs.
- An excellent solution for major brands looking to industrialize a collection or produce on a larger scale.
- Provides a realistic preview, useful for digital visual communication and interactive presentations.
- It is an essential tool in 3D printing, lost wax casting, etc.
Constraints of 3D design
- The final result is not physical: it is a digital file.
- Software is often complex to learn how to use.
- The final price of 3D modeling is very expensive.
- Prolonged work on a screen can cause eye strain.
- Loss of quality during printing.
Detail of the modeling or 3D drawing of the Papillon brooch, created by computer for Diana Vachette Lara
It's true that digital technology is becoming increasingly prevalent in our daily lives, but I remain convinced of the importance of preserving the link with tradition and the beauty of handmade items. As gouacheuseI feel a real magic in the creation of a gouache painting. Seeing an idea gradually take shape on paper and discovering the client's reaction to this first glimpse of their jewelry... it's a privilege. On the other hand, I find that the rendering of the 3D design is always very impressive, because we can appreciate the closure systems in greater detail, see the final piece in different positions, change the color of materials or precious stones, or calculate the exact amount of gold to be used.
Jeweler's gouache painting and 3D drawing of the butterfly brooch, side by side.
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